Khon Kaen to Kamcha-I

Well, Day 1 of our Lower Isaan Road Trip didn’t go quite as planned. Nothing out the ordinary for the first 120 kilometres along AH12 and then the aircon stopped working.

I noticed the water temperature was elevated so I pulled over into some shade and topped up the overflow reservoir. The Pajero had been losing a small quantity of water each day for some time and consequently needed to be topped up each day. After a time the temperature was back to normal so we resumed our journey.

Less than a kilometre along the highway we noticed that unmistakable smell of an overheating engine. Fortunately the apron of the highway was just sufficiently wide enough to get completely off the road. And away from traffic doing 100 to 120+ km/h.

We called the mechanic at Kamcha-I and waited.

We had stopped on a uphill slope. It was hot. The place smelled of dog shit.

I diagnosed loss of water and a severely overheated engine. I think the engine is cactus. The need to top up the radiator was a known issue – the brother in law was topping it up every day. It was full when we departed and ran well for 120 kilometres. Then something catastrophic happened. The irony of the situation is that we were going to this mechanic this afternoon for him to check the aircon.

We were on the side of the road for more than an hour. It was hot. Then it rained – a wild tropical storm that lasted for 15 minutes. Then it was humid.

A truck driver stopped, however, apart from some kind words, he was unable assist in any meaningful way.

Eventually the mechanics arrived in a pick-up and declared the Pajero to be rooted. A 3.2 metre tow rope and a couple of dinky D shackles were produced and the two vehicles were connected. The Pajero was practically in the bed of the pick-up.

I’ve always been told you can’t flat tow an automatic without first disconnecting the rear prop shaft. I tried telling the two guys who arrived to recover us and our vehicle that flat towing a vehicle that has an automatic gearbox is highly likely to cause major damage but they weren’t interested – and when you’re stuck on the side of the road, hot, wet, no tilt tray flat bed even likely to be available, and traffic doing 100-120+ km/h only one metre away, what options do you have?

They shifted the gear lever to neutral and off we went. If the gearbox is stuffed at the end of this I bet the mechanics will refuse to accept responsibility.

We were doing 100 km/h on AH12 – two vehicles less than three metres apart and I was extremely apprehensive. Anything goes wrong and it was goodnight to both vehicles.

I may be getting risk averse as I age but this is one adventure I don’t need.

More information and photographs.

That was pretty much the end of our Road Trip in the Pajero. We returned to Khon Kaen and, after a hiatus of a day, returned to Mukdahan in a Chev sedan to sort out repairs to the Pajero and resume our Road Trip.

Mukdahan to Wat Dong Thao Kao

We headed south out of Mukdahan on good roads to Wat Dong Thao Kao, site of the remains of a Khmer temple. Ancient temples (1000+ years) are definitely the focus of our Road Trips but these journeys are much more than a tour of a pile of ancient rocks.

The ancient temples in which we are interested are those of the Khmer Empire that prevailed from 802 to 1431. The Khmer Empire ruled or subordinated most of mainland South East Asia and stretched as far north as southern China. We have visited many Khmer ruins in Thailand, Cambodia and Laos.

Buildings, statues, Sema stones and other artefacts date from at least three distinctly different periods, and possibly more.

There is nothing left of this ancient Khmer temple other than the Sema (boundary) stones. They likely date from the 11-12th century.

The Wat is of comparatively recent construction. The statues are older but not as ancient as the Sema stones.

More information and photographs.

Harvest Time in Isaan

It seemed that the whole country was involved in harvesting, drying and bagging rice.

Wat Dong Thao Kao to Takhian Wooden Boat Museum

This ancient wooden vessel was probably a rice-carrying boat operating on the Se Bai River, possibly up to 200 years ago, however, with no hard evidence, the true history of the  vessel cannot be accurately ascertained.

After a part of the boat was noticed projecting from the Se Bai River in 2015 local villagers agreed that it be retrieved and put on display at Wat Chiang Pheng. Under close supervision of archaeologists, the villagers used backhoes and manual labour to retrieve the nearly submerged vessel, transported it on a semi trailer about a kilometre east to the Wat, and put it on permanent display under a well-constructed shelter.

The vessel is 27.5m long, 3.5m wide, and 1.5m high. It is classified as a Mak Kra Saeng boat, narrow at the bow and stern, and wider in the middle, built by the side plank boat building method, often seen in the North East.

This wreck is about 80% complete and it is still strong.

Takhian Wooden Boat Museum to That Kong Khao Noi

The pagoda at That Kong Khao Noi is of little interest – it dates only to the 18th century, however, the Sema (boundary) stones date to the late Dvaravati period – perhaps 11th-12th century.

That Kong Khao Noi to Huai Thap Than Khmer Ruins (Ban Prasart Khmer Ruins)

Located in what is today known as Wat Prasat Phanaram, Huai Thap Than Khmer temple was renovated and revised at some time after its construction. It has a very similar roof to the Si Khoraphum Khmer ruins in Surin province. Huai Thap Than comprises three brick stupas on laterite bases, in a north-south direction. Laterite walls with arches and gates surround the stupas.

It is thought that this site may have once had four gates, however, only the southern gate remains today. The eastern gate of the middle stupa, the largest and lowest of the three, is framed with an unusual and unfinished lintel.

Carvings depict a figure standing above a structure. Other carved lintels in front of the southernmost stupa are said to depict a ‘churning sea of milk’.

From analysis of the blended Khleang-Baphuon style of Khmer architecture of these ruins it is thought that they were likely built in or before the 11th century – and then later refurbished. Ignore claims of other dates.

More information and photographs.

Huai Thap Than Khmer Ruins (Ban Prasart Khmer Ruins to Rattanaburi

With the day drawing to a close it was time to find somewhere to stay overnight. Somewhere in the general direction of the next attraction on our list.

We stayed at Bansom Resort – quiet, great value for money, lovely hosts, close to a restaurant and a 7/11 in Rattanaburi – a clean and attractive  city.

Leaving Rattanaburi

An aspect of farming becoming noticeable is Bio Security, with the most obvious indication being closed gates at the front of properties.

Ku Ka Sing

The Ku (tower shaped building) – the word is used interchangeably with prang, prasat and chedi – was constructed in the 10th-11th century at Ka Sing under the influence of the Khmer culture. Ku Ka Sing comprises three brick towers and two associated buildings in the inner area surrounded by a U-shaped moat.

Ku Ka Sing’s three towers are built in the Baphuon style.

The brick towers are on a laterite base and incorporate sandstone decorative elements. This practice is seen in other towers in North East Thailand such as Phra Ko Na.

Future Restoration

There is a placement of laterite and sandstone blocks at the northern side of the Prasat that will be used in future restoration.

More blocks have been stored in a shed.

When funds become available these blocks (and probably new sandstone blocks) will be used for refurbishment work. The process is known as anastylosis.

Leaving Ku Ka Sing

We left Ku Ka Sing with just two Prasats to visit before heading back to Khon Kaen.

As we were leaving we noticed a house in the village of a very unusual design. Certainly not Thai style.

Mun River

The Mun is the most important river in Isaan and one of Thailand’s most important rivers..

Country Isaan

No mistaking we were in rural Thailand.

Prasat Ku Santarat

Prasat Ku Santarat is a well-preserved laterite arogyasala (hospital) in current day Ban Po Thong and near the site of an ancient city site – Muang Nakhon Champa Si. It was completed in the period 1157-1207.

The arogyasala has an east-facing central shrine, an enclosing wall and the ‘standard’ features found in constructions of the era  – entrance hall, ‘library’, eastern gopura and a baray.

The Prasat is in excellent condition, due mainly to extensive Fine Arts Department restoration.

More information and photographs.

Agricultural Activity

Our Road Trip was through agricultural heartland.

The practice of drying rice on public roads is something we have seen only in this part of Isaan.

Prasat Puaei Noi

We headed towards Khon Kaen but not before we checked out Prasat Puaei Noi.

Attractive Prasat Pueai Noi, built in the 11-12th century, is the most intact Khmer temple in the north-east.

Although it is located in out-of-the-way, current day Pueai Noi district it is close to the geographical centre of Isaan and it’s reasonable to assume that Puay Noi was a significant transport and administrative hub in the mid-to-late Khmer period.

The temple is constructed from red sandstone and laterite blocks.

More information and photographs.

The Lower Isaan Road Trip was in November 2024.

780 kilometres, two days, two nights.

Download 11044-Lower Isaan Road Trip GPX File.

Touring Around Khon Kaen