Chao Phraya River Ferry Trip

Who would have thought that a simple upriver ferry journey on Bangkok’s Chao Praya River could be so interesting and such good value.

And the return journey downriver was just as good!

Express Boat Ferry

We took the Chao Phraya Express Boat (Orange Route) from Wat Rajsingkorn Pier near Asiatique to the upriver terminus at Nonthaburi, a distance of 21 kilometres.

: There are numerous ferries berthed at the downriver terminus of the Orange Route.

: Getting on board at Wat Rajsingkorn pier.

There are 21 intervening piers (passenger stops) over the 21 kilometre length of the ferry route from Wat Rajsinkorn to Nonthaburi. The fare was all of 16 baht. The ferry seats about 90 (more standing) and is one of 65 plying the route.

: Plenty of room and reasonably comfortable seats.

: At a pier.

The Chao Phraya River

The Chao Phraya River is Thailand’s major watercourse. It starts at the confluence of the Ping and Nan rivers in Nakhon Sawan and flows 372 kilometres to the Gulf of Thailand, 60 kilometres south of Bangkok. However, the river’s headwaters – the Ping, Wang, Yom, and Nan rivers – rise in the mountains of northern Thailand.

At Chai Nat, the river splits from the main course and, as a distributary known as the Tha Chin River, flows parallel to the main river before debouching into the Gulf of Thailand about 35 kilometres west of Bangkok in Samut Sakhon.

Naming of the River

Old European maps show the river named as Mae Nam, literally “motherly water”.

The English translation of the name Chao Phraya is river of kings.

Khlongs and Canals

The many khlongs and canals of the Chao Phraya River are the reason for the oft-mentioned description of Bangkok as the ‘Venice of the East’. However, over time and for reasons of hygiene, housing development, and resumption for roads many of the khlongs and canals have disappeared.

Bridges

Sailing junks, square riggers and trading vessels of all types from many places and nation states once plyed their way 160 kilometers upriver to Thailand’s then capital at Ayutthaya.

: Upmarket ferry passing under Rama VIII Bridge.

The opening of Rama VI Bridge in 1927, coincidentally Thailand’s longest railway bridge, meant the end of larger ships using the river – and saw the eventual and necessary introduction of barges.

: Just enough room.

: Krung Thon Bridge.

: Phrapokklao Bridge.

: Rama VIII Bridge.

: Somdet Phra Pinkhao Bridge.

Busy River

The Chao Phraya is a busy river. It is home to ferries, long express boats, tour boats, hotel cruise boats, tug boats, barges official rivercraft (police, navy), work cranes, gaily-coloured long tail skiffs, private sampans and pretty much anything that floats.

: Chatrium Hotel Cruise Boat.

: Long tail skiff powered by a re-purposed V8 automotive engine.

: Long tail sampan.

: Out-of-water police boat.

: Ferry

Construction Work Vessels

: The crane is not fitted to the barge but is an independent tracked vehicle.

: Another crane barge.

River Buses, Cross-River Ferries, and Water Taxis

Barges

Evidence of the importance of the Chao Phraya River as a trade route is everywhere. Large barges often in a train of four or five are towed up and down the river by powerful tugs.

The barges move bulky goods such as sand, timber, garbage, construction materials, oil and grains. Cargo is mostly moved in bulk but palletised cargo may also be transported. Broadly, construction material north bound (upriver) and agricultural products downriver.

Barges are an important part of Thailand’s import/export trade.

: Single barge under tow.

Accommodation units are located at the stern of the barges, enabling bargees to live aboard.

Sights to be Seen

The ferry journey allows one to see Wat Arun, the Grand Palace, and numerous iconic riverfront buildings from a different perspective.

: Wat Arun

: Long tail ferry in front of the Grand Palace.

: Headquarters of the Singha Corporation.

: Royal Irrigation Department.

Bangkok Skyline

Simple and Quick Docking Procedure

Because the ferry is a hop on, hop off service that criss-crosses the river it needs to have an efficient and dependable docking/de-docking procedure so passengers can quickly and safely embark and disembark.

: At the Pier the crewman directs the driver to position the Ferry so that he can slip a hawser over a bollard.

Communication between the crew member at the stern who leaps off the ferry and anchors it to the pier and the driver (skipper) of the ferry is via a means of whistles. An arcane even secret method of communication reminiscent of the London Fish Markets’ patois, truck drivers’ radio chat, secret societies jargon, military patrol signals, spycraft, and even sign language. More formally it is a mild form of audio steganography. Whatever way one wants to describe this form of communication by whistle – It works.

The crewman is able to direct the skipper to reverse the ferry, push back against the hawser holding it against the pier, go forward, depart, and numerous other commands/instructions necessary to get the job done.

Wind and wake waves from passing river traffic conspire to complicate the easy docking of the ferry. Congestion at Piers is sorted by some hierarchy that I wasn’t able to discern.

Express versus Hop On, Hop Off at Piers

There are 22 Piers (stops for passengers) upriver from the Wat Rajsingkorn Pier. The ferry stops at the Piers for only the minimum time required embark/disembark passengers.

The Express Boat Orange Line, on which we were travelling, plies between Wat Rajsinkorn Pier and Nonthaburi. Other services such as the Blue Flag Boat and the Chao Phraya Tourist Boat operate as a hop on, hop off ferry.

Koh Kret Island

The main purpose of our ferry journey was to visit Koh Kret, a sizeable island 92 kilometres upriver from the mouth of the Chao Phraya River known as a bit of a ‘sleeper’ tourist destination.

This artificial island was created in 1722 when King Thaisa sought a quicker route for river traffic to get to the capital at Ayutthaya, 160 kilometres upriver from the mouth and 93 kilometres upriver from current day capital Krung Thep (Bangkok). A canal was dug in a month by 10,000 workers. Over time, erosion and natural flow transformed the hand-dug canal into the main course of the Chao Phraya River, reducing the river journey by seven kilometres.

King Taksin (1734-1782) allowed the Mon people to settle on the island.

To get from the most-upriver pier on the ferry route (Nonthaburi) to the Koh Kret ferry required a short taxi ride and then a cross river boat ride.

: Overhead train line departing Nonthaburi.

Koh Kret should stay as a ‘sleeper’ destination. Its novelty of being an island doesn’t prevent it being a tourist trap. It is over hyped and no different from hundreds of other tourist markets selling useless, overpriced crap. But, hey, we gave it a go and the journey to get there and back was great.

: Ferry at Koh Kret.

: Steps leading to a concourse.

: Leaning pagoda.

Water Hyacinth

This introduced plant is a real, ongoing and increasing problem in the Chao Phraya River. It is a long way from being solved – if it ever can be!

Water hyacinth cannot be just scooped up and thrown away. Cutting water hyacinth helps spread its seeds and allows it to grow faster. The plant is a survivor; it can adapt. It thrives when there is water, however, if the water dries up the hyacinth adjusts and becomes part of the mud and soil. Its seeds can live up to 25-30 years.

: Water hyacinth blocks a side canal.

: Most of the river is strewn with water hyacinth.

: Most of the river is strewn with water hyacinth.

This riverside landing platform is similar in design to the ubiquitous Highway Huts/Roadside Shelters seen throughout Thailand.

: Similar in design to Highway Huts/Roadside Shelters, this riverside landing is surrounded by water hyacinth.

More information about water hyacinth.

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