Ban Mung is in Noen Maprang District, Phitsanulok. By road it is 350 kilometres north of Bangkok, roughly 60 kilometres south-east of Phitsanulok and about 330 kilometres west of Khon Kaen.
By necessity the village is reasonably well set up to handle tourists. Numerous restaurants and a variety of accommodation.
Ban Mung Nuea (its full title) is often described as an ‘unknown destination’ but that is inaccurate. Maybe for Farangs but not for Thais.
Khao Kho Mountains
The south-west-facing limestone cliffs of the Khao Kho Mountains at Ban Mung are riddled with caves – homes for a great multitude of bats, the main attraction for year round visits by tourists.
The Khao Kho Mountains are part of the western range of the Phetchabun Mountains. Khao is the word for mountain in central and southern Thailand whereas Phu is used in Isaan (and Laos) (cf Phu Phan, Phu Sa Dok Bua), and Doi in northern Thailand (Doi Inthanon, Doi Suthep). Although probably pleonastic ‘mountain’ is commonly used in co-location with ‘khao’.
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- Soth-west edge of the Khao Kho Mountains at Ban Mung.
The Khao Kho Mountains are home to what is claimed to be one of the largest bat populations in Thailand. Whether the number of Chiroptera is ‘up to one million’, ‘around the million mark’ or ‘many millions’ is difficult to pin down.
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- The limestone karst towers over the village.
Limestone Karst
Grey vertical limestone battlements contrast markedly with the green farm land that abuts. The spectacular limestone karst is reminiscent of that found in southern Thailand.
Remarkable Natural Phenomenon
It is to this village and these mountains that tourists are drawn each evening at dusk to see what is a remarkable natural phenomenon.
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- Crowds gather up to thirty minutes before sunset.
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- Crowds gather at an elevated viewing area.
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- Popular with Thais more so than Farangs..
Every evening at sunset, bats emerge from their caves in search of food. The liquid-like stream of flying mammals bursting forth from the caves is overwhelmingly comprised of the wrinkle-lipped free-tailed species of bat – although it is said there are other species roosting in the various caves.
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- Local tours of the district are offered before the bats appear.
Flight of the Bats
The bats’ role in pollination and insect control is important in maintaining the ecological balance of the area.
Information is limited on where the bats go. Don’t believe the crap spouted by AI that they leave their rookeries for only 20 minutes or so and/or travel 10 kilometres or so – it is patently incorrect, derived from bat activity in the US.
It takes more than 20 minutes for the spectacular exit to unfold. Villagers advise that the bats return around dusk the next morning (from where?). Indeed, it is often advised that punters have a chance to see the bats re-enter the caves around dawn should they miss their departure at dusk.
© Kim Epton 2025
515 words, 11 photographs.
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